It comes in all different sheens, satin is probably the most popular. My current favorite is made by Varathane, it’s a is a water-based sealer that has never failed me. If your wood project is whitewashed, a gray shade, rustic barn wood, or a shallow light wood like maple, go water-based. If you are sealing a wood that usually looks great with an orangy/amber tint, choose an oil-based sealer…water-based may make your project look dull and lifeless. If the project is wooden, sometimes an oil-based sealer is a better choice because it gives the wood depth and color than water-based can’t provide. There are a few instances where I will choose an oil-based sealer. The finish will turn yellow and streaky and you will be forced to redo your entire project. I am telling you from experience that if you use an oil-based sealer over paint it will look horrible in about a week. If the thing you are sealing is painted, then you absolutely need to be using a water-based sealer. Why? It’s simple to use (easy cleanup, quick dry time), offers fantastic protection, and DOESN’T YELLOW. For these types of projects, I choose a water-based sealer 95% of the time. There are countless things out there that need sealer, but for this post we are talking about small household DIY projects…furniture, cabinets, doors, etc. Which sealer should I choose? I choose to use a water-based sealer on about 95% of my projects. If the can says oil on it, no matter how much it also says the word water elsewhere on the can… it will yellow over time. I used it and can tell you exactly what it means…it means it will turn yellow and ruin your entire painted project. This gets even more confusing because they now mix and match names – I once bought and used a can labeled “water-based oil-modified polyurethane” I mean….what the hell does that even mean? Shorter cure time (4-hour recoat or less).Looks milky in the can, goes on completely clear.Offers great protection (some say less than oil-based, but I haven’t found that to be true).Will yellow over time (and will ruin painted projects).Must be cleaned up with mineral spirits.Thicker and requires fewer coats than a water-based sealer.Has a long cure time (24 hours or more before recoat).Here are a few facts about each type – Oil-based sealers No matter how many confusing names they give sealers for the purposes of this post they boil down to two categories – Oil-based sealers and water-based sealers. So let’s have a fun little conversation about a very boring subject…water-based vs oil-based sealers (There are a crazy amount of options for sealer, but today we are going to keep things simple and just talk about those two). It sucks, and I don’t want the same thing to happen to you. You grab a sealer from the hardware store without much thought…because sealer is sealer, right? Except it’s not, and your entire project turns yellow and streaky, completely ruining it.Īs you can see in the above photo, this has happened to me…multiple times. Go you! The last step is to protect the paint so it looks this amazing forever. It looks fantastic…you breathed new life into it like a freaking pro. Imagine you spend forever sanding, priming, and painting a beautiful piece of furniture you found at a garage sale.
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